Thursday, July 29, 2010

Narnia? Jurassic Park? No... its Plitvice Lakes

Travelling in a very non-organised way is great... some of the time. 

Some moments become a little unnerving. 

Like when we arrived at Plitvice. A bus stop in a forest. A bus driver shooing us off the bus as we stared around in bewilderment wondering if he'd misinterpreted our desire to go and STAY at Plitvice Lakes, like the tourist information said we could.

And then Sanja stepped forward... "Accommodation?  You want a room?"  "It is close by, the nearest one to the park entrance" ... errrr... "Yes, please!" all the time wondering what on earth we were getting ourselves into.  All around, nothing but trees. The road slicing through the green and silence on either side of us.  "Sorry for the baby seat, I have to carry my daughter" - that's fine... I'm missing all the littlies!  Turns out she's two and a bit and seriously cute (and has already noticed that sometimes her mother talks a different language). "My husband works for the National Park and we have an apartment to rent out. This year is hard because of the global crisis, no internet bookings so I meet all the buses." Quite a relief for us though at this point in time. I still don't see anything although apparently there are three hotels nearby.

After a windy little detour partly back the way we'd come we turned into a village, about the size of National Park village at home, similar function, although all the houses reminded me of pictures of the Swiss Alps. We had an apartment with lounge, kitchen, bathroom and two bedrooms, the other of which was potentially occupied that night or the next if Sanja could pick anyone else up from the bus. Excellent!

First steps into the forest the next morning and I felt like "Daughter of Eve from the far land of Spare Oom where eternal summer reigns around the bright city of War Drobe", and stepped into Narnia.  The forest, the path, the streetlamp.  We were only missing Mr Tumnus and the snow. A magical feeling. 

The beech and fir forest dappled the sunlight into green and white speckles, off the path the deep leaf mould nurtured new seedlings and deadened the harsh sounds of the world outside, only metres away.  The landscape was full of tree filled craters, perfectly round depressions; sink holes, as nature continuously reshapes the landscape in the spectacular way that has created Plitvice Lakes, a unique geological and ecological environment.

The path, winding it's way downhill, brought us to civilisation after a kilometre. All too quickly the magic dispersed into asphalt, people, people and vehicles. And the sound of rushing water. We couldn't see water but there was no mistaking the sound of it. Jurassic Park like bus/trains were filling and departing with station-like efficency - disappearing within seconds into the green and shade.

Well organised entry points to the park, information stands, food stalls and impressive toilet facilities are designed to cater to the masses of people using the enormous park with minimal impact on the fragile ecosystem. Changes in the chemical balances of the water will disrupt the continually evolving lake system so every care is taken to preserve the balance of nature. It's a former river which has developed into a series of lakes from the interaction of the chemical content of the water and the mosses forming travertine barriers that become little lakes with waterfalls connecting them to the next step down. Starting at the top, although we had seen pictures of the lakes, we had no concept of the scale of the system.  A board walk spans most of it so it is easy to get closer to view the lakes and falls than many of the earlier explorers would have been able.  And always the sound of rushing water, loud and constant. And the continual tremble of the boardwalk under hundreds of footsteps. Not having a tripod was suddenly ok. I'd have to try the long exposures propped against the handrail and handheld as best as I could. Couldn't have kept a tripod still anyway with the constant pounding of feet.

Water... back in my element, and for the first time for ages, wanted to just be able to take the time to indulge myself. Didn't really suit the hoards following me though so it took a while to be able to get a sense of the place and photograph from within. The park's opening and closing hours, and the numbers of people doing the anything from 2 to 8 hour walks are not conducive to photographing in perfect landscape photography conditions.

The wildlife, particularly the fish and ducks are used to people, the fish come close to the waters edge, following the path that surrounds the lake. They even follow the electric boats out and greet them back in as they cross backwards and forwards, and up and down the main lake.

The whole park is amazing and in summer, inundated with tourists, mainly locals who come to stay in one of the many villages hidden in the forest, like ours. Another place to add to the list for a time of year when the people numbers are less.  





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